Here are real photographs taken by me to explain how to set up the governor linkage for the 5 HP Briggs and Stratton horizontal shaft engines. The setup is fairly simple after you have done a few of them. Please don’t e-mail me about this unless you absolutely still don’t understand how it works. The biggest things is to PAY ATTENTION to everything when you take it all apart.
The above picture is an overall view of the linkage. The only thing you can’t see clearly is the governor arm and where the governor spring goes.
In this picture, I highlight where the govenor link goes and where the governor spring connects. The link goes to the hole at the end of the arm (blue arrow). The long end of the spring (newer models) connects to the “T” looking tab on the governor arm.
There will be a slight variation to this set up with older engines. Instead of there being a tab hanging off the side of the arm for the governor spring, there is a hole drilled in the arm. Also, the spring will be different. The older springs will not have a long end. They will have a short bend on both sides.
The control link and the governor link are highlighted in this picture. The governor link is the blue one and the control link is the red one.
This picture highlights where the control link connects. It connects to the rotating control arm on the bottom of the tank bracket. The governor springs connects to the opposite end that the link connects to.
Here is the upper end where it all ties together. The blue link is the governor link. It connects from the governor arm to the black plastic bell crank (highlighted in black). The red link is the control link and it connects to a metal bell crank (highlighted in yellow). The link is pressed into a white bushing/connector (highlighted in white).
The pin on the throttle control assembly fits in the hole on the control link (arrows).
Finally, this is the top view of the assembled governor and choke linkages.
Hello. I have an older B&S 5hp engine mounted on a rototiller. I got it for free and the linkage has never been right. One of the first things I noticed is that I DON’T have the “mechanism” on top like you have in your last picture. I have no idea how the linkage connects on mine or what is missing, if anything is. Two days ago, I went to my local parts supplier and got some gaskets to fix the carb and I bought a new governor spring (short one with equal bent ends) in order to try and get this tiller running. This is the one they said goes with my engine. I only have one linkage rod going down towards the governor arm. It connects on top to the throttle lever arm. I have no idea where to connect the spring I just bought. I hooked it up where I thought it should go, but the throttle would not work. I got the engine started, but I had to screw the idle adjustment screw on the throttle lever in all the way to give it gas. My engine number is 130202. Any ideas? I’m searching the Internet for a diagram,but haven’t found one so far. Thanks
Hi Anthony,
Gee, just about at my wits end with exactly the same problem!!!Found this link to small engines on chat room “Allotment Gardening »
Chatting »
Equipment Shed (Moderator: JayG) »
fixing problems with briggs and stratton+small engines ” [Allotmentgardening.com, uk web site]
Had a problem with not starting, then now power. Got some good tips and pics on carb from “JustAnswer.com” suggesting I strip carb and clean jets etc. which I did and replace fuel pump diaphragm. Also Mountfield tiller manual from B&S UK and 130000 series B&S manual from the allotment gardener web site but NO INFO till now on this governor set up where I think the problem is. I now can get machine to start but strangely with throttle lever fully “open”.Cannot get any real speed/power. Think this linkage/spring setup is the key and looking for more info
here. Like you I do not have the red/yellow control link. Missing or not fitted?? Did you have any luck? There is another link on this site to B&S governor linkage, will have to check it out.
Could send you a photo of spring connection etc.Eric, Nottingham, UK
I also have only one vertical linkage. I found pics of where the spring goes, but the throttle has no effect on any linkage.
This thing ran last year, but I had to take the carb off & clean the ports.
Now linkage makes no sense and all references show 2 vertical links.
I’m not sure of the photo due to clarity issues, but most of these engines I’ve ever worked on (been doing it ten years) only have one link going down to the throttle control panel, which one side of the governor spring attaches to, and the governor arm itself, which the other attaches to somewhere between top and bottom, closer to middle. Reason being, that the other link most folks see on outdoor engines is for the choke. The linkage for the choke on gastank mounted carbs is usually always at the top of the assembly, controlled by a separate (user) control panel on top of the tank…..one sets governor spring pressure, via the long link to the bottom and the other sets the choke (both are on top of the tank). Hopes this clears things up for you.
Working on a Troy Bilt Junior tiller and I’m missing some of the linkages,I’m thinking of bending some new ones if you could provide a picture and measurements I’d appreciate it
This has been the best intel I’ve found including the visuals provided helps makes sense of the issues
most informative site i ve found anywhere. and i ve surfed the ole interweb here for hours on end. found new home for small engine info. thanks guys GREAT WORK
Hi Folks
Is there a resolution to this issue?
I have a B and S, 5 HP tiller. It has the fixed jet pulsa jet carb. This one just has the single control lever going down to the governor arm. I too cannot seem to get how it works.
It does seem as though the throttle is closed when furthest away from the adjustable stop.
There is just one governor spring with a short coil section and a looping end that goes onto the “T” slot on the governor arm.
You probably need to replace that spring. Once they stretch the will no longer work and you will not get high speed. I hope this helps.
Hi, working on a Troy Bilt Pony tiller, has the single rod from the plastic link to the governor arm and on top to the throttle. That’s the only rod link going down to the governor, the governor spring has a loop on one end that connects to the tank bracket the other end is a long loop that fits to the T shaped mount on the governor arm. The choke is controlled by a single lever control mounted on the tank. The engine model is 130292 type 3016-01.Now the problem, the governor arm moves up when engine starts , the governor spring doesn’t pull against the arm , the throttle is moved to idle position and that’s all i can get it to do is run at idle. If i push down on the governor arm the engine speeds up and seems to be governed settling to a steady speed , the governor spring seems to be useless it doesn’t pull against the arm in any position. From the governor arm the spring is attached to the lower back tank bracket looking from the recoil starter side. I can’t find any diagrams for this governor setup online, everything i find is for two rods going down from the carb. So all i can get is idle speed only from this setup, something is not hooked up right. Any help would be appreciated
I had the same problem, I found the spring was stretched out I replaced the spring with a new one. Be careful not to stretch the spring when putting the tank back on. I hope this helps. The spring will attach to the back of the tank and the square top of the spring will attach to the T shape on the govnor arm
Can someone tell me the part number for the governor spring posted above? The one with the long paperclip like end, and a short hook on the other.
I believe the spring your looking for is part# 690376. That is Briggs part number.
Thank you for posting this. I allowed my 12yo son to try to repair our tiller. He got frustrated so my job now. Pictures are worth a 1000 words. Many thanks,Chris
To replace the governor spring it is quite simple if you take off the blower housing, the one with the pull rope. I tried for a bit to put on a new spring with the housing still on and found it near impossible. Take the blower housing off, three bolts, and everything is easy to see. New spring almost 1/2 inch shorter than old stretched out governor spring. Significant difference in top speed and digging ability. Just do it! Next up is new crank seals.
wood splitter with 5 hp Briggs. New carb purchased from after market. Starts good cold with full choke. When choke slide is repositioned the slightest and the choke begins to open the engine dies immediately. Any ideas ? Thanks in advance.
Ron
I bought one of those aftermarket cabs and had to replace the air fuel mixture screw with the one off my old carb. I hope this helps.
My problem is the spring fell off so I don’t know what it looks like or how / where it fits.
The drawing for my engine, a 130212-3245-01, shows a long spring running alongside the linkages (691818/262288).
This is the one that I obtained but I can’t see where it fits.
I have now ordered another one that looks more like the one that fits down at the bottom of the linkages (690376/262282).
I will get back to you as to how well this works.
My engine seized on my old chipper/shredder and I’m thinking of getting a 6.5hp “Predator” engine from Harbor Freight; wondering if I’ll be able to transfer the governor setup. Anyone know?
actually, I see that the Predator engine has a governor 🙂
But any advice or comment on this swap would be appreciated!
hi i have the mtd tiller model 215 340 500 ,a friend of mine took all the linkages off to clean the carb and couldnt get it back togather,he brought the parts to me in a bag,,i have everything done ,just cant figure out the govener linkage..and cant find any diagrams on here for it,,please if you have a pic or video on it id love to see it…thank you
I have fallen into a can with the same problems as I have what a joy reading them now maybe I will figure out how the spring is hooked up. Sent for some springs they do not look like ones in the picture. Thank you all involved for posting your problems. Mine is a B&S 130292 on a Pony Tiller 15009 Model If any one has measurements of the correct one would appreciate . Wire size, length, coil size, and number of coils. For the prices of these spring with shipping are getting very pricy so I think I will start making my own. johner1944@gmail.com
I’ve got a 5hp Briggs that seems to be missing the spring — what part number do I need? Not sure if mine is like the above image or different?
Motor Info
130202…..model
3129-01….type
91012407….code