ENGINE WILL NOT START
1. Check for proper fuel level. Fill gas tank to just below the fill neck so there is room for the gas to expand and slosh around. If you fill the tank all the way to the top, then gas will leak out as the engine shakes around. Also check for a dirty/clogged fuel filter, and check to see if the fuel valve is in the “ON” position.
2. Check the spark plug. If it is “carbon shorted”, carbon between the electode gap, clean or replace it. If the plug is pitted, burned, or has cracked procelain, replace it with an identical replacement spark plug.
3. Check for spark. With a commercially available spark tester, test for spark by putting the spark plug wire (high-tension lead) on one side of the tester and clip the other side of the tester to the shroud, fins or head bolts. Or ground the plug, with high tension lead on it, to the head of the engine and crank on the engine. NOTE: **Keep the spark plug away from the spark plug hole so spark does not jump and ignite any fuel vapors.** Spark is present when you see blue sparks jump the electrode gap. If the mower is older than 1983, the points could be burned. Or, on a rare occasion, the solid state (electronic igniton) magneto could be bad.
4. Prime or Choke the engine. If the engine has a primer or choke, use them! Prime engine 3 times and then start. Choke engine until it starts to fire and then open the choke. If this does not phase it any, then use the below instructions.
5. Carburetor is clogged. Remove the air filter and spray carburetor cleaner or starting fluid into the air intake and crank the engine over. If engine fires and then quits, stop the fuel flow, remove the bowl nut and bowl. Blow compressed air or a run tag wire through the holes in the bowl nut and clean the bowl of any derbis. If a lot of debris is in the bowl, dispose properly of the old gasoline and flush the gas tank, fuel line, and replace fuel filter (if equiped). If the high speed is adjustable, remove the adjusting needle from the nut and run a wire through the holes. NOTE: **Tecumseh engines with an adjustable high speed have a third pinhole under the top set of threads. Make sure this is clean. Tag wire will fit it to clean the hole. Make sure you can see the wire through the nut when looking into it. Run the tag wire up the nozle in the carburetor too. On large 1 and 2 piece Briggs and Stratton Flo-Jets, make sure you remove the highspeed nozle out of the carburetor. NOTE: **You must have a 1/4″ screw driver that DOES NOT have the bulges on the side. Using a regular screw driver will damage the threads.** Blow air through all the holes and make sure you can see light through all of them. Reinstall the nozzle until tight. Reinstall the the bowl and then nut. Screw the adjustment screw in until it is finger tight and then back it out 1 1/2 turn to get the pre adjustment. If your engine has a diaphragm style carburetor, Click Here.
6. Engine has been over choked. Open choke and crank engine with the throttle at wide open until the engine starts.
7. Safety devices are dissengaged. Put the equipment in Neutral or Park, disengage the deck attatchment or PTO and depress the clutch. Some lawn tractors require you to sit on the seat when starting the engine. If all the safety devices are engaged and the equipment still will not start, there might be a problem in the wiring or the switches/modules have gone bad.
8. Ground (stop) wire is grounded. Check to see if the stop wire has rubbed against the flywheel. You will need to remove the air shroud to do so. If wire is touching the flywheel, repair the wire and reroute it.
9. Remote fuel pump is not pumping fuel. This problem occurs when the diaphragms get hard in the fuel pump. Remove the fuel pump from the engine shroud or off of the tractor itself and take the fuel pump apart on a work bench. If this fuel pump is one of the Walbro fuel pumps (rectangular, pulse and line from fuel “IN” line on same end, “OUT” line on opposite end) Tecumseh P/N 33010 should be the diaphragms to repair the fuel pump. Always use Model and Type/Spec numbers off of engine to allocate the correct parts. If the fuel pump is mounted on the tractor, not the engine, then you will have to get the Model number off of the TRACTOR to get the diaphgram part number.
Another problem is low or no vacuum at the pulse line. To test for pulse, remove pulse line from the fuel pump and put your finger over it. Crank on the engine. If you feel your finger being sucked on, then you have sufficient vacuum to operate pump. If you have no or little vacuum, then check for a cracked or broken hose.
10. Problem with safety switch. Either the safety switch is broken or the wires going to it are loose, or have some sort of corrosion on it. Check for good connections.
11. Problem with zone start cable If you have a push mower, it is possible that the zone start cable (cable connected to the bail you pull back to start the engine) is not pulling the flywheel brake back all the way, thus causing the switch to not break contact. To remedy this, either tie a knot in the metal wire to shorten it or, if possible, drill a hole just a little lower than the current mounting hole and mount the cable to that hole.
12. Fuel Cap The fuel cap is not venting. A non venting fuel cap will cause a vacuum in the tank, preventing the flow of fuel to the carburetor. Replace the cap.
I have an Echo SRM 210 trimmer. It has worked great until recently. It began with hard starts, but run great after got started. Finally one day it wouldn’t start and spit fuel out of exhaust during cranking. I ordered a new carb and installed it along with new fuel line kit, air filter, and spark plug. As soon as you pull the start cord, it floods. choke on or off. I checked for spark, and spark is present. I always have run TRUE FUEL 50:1 Any Ideas????
Check the anti AfterFire solenoid on the carburetor bowl, The plunger should retract when the ignition(key) is on.If the plunger does not retract then it prevents fuel from entering the carb.
WHAT IS THE VALVE CLEARENCE ON BRIGGS AND STRATTON 675EXI